Luxeon Light bar and GPS mount

Front view of Aluminum light bar mounted with a five watt Luxeon in the center with a power pluck below it. The Luxeon need a four X four aluminum plate for heat sink. I feel that with this mount, the entire bicycle mount is a heat sink. On the right is a one watt Luxeon. Below is another one watt Luxeon and a five watt Halogen lamp. Either can be mounted on the left side.



Lens are available from the Luxeon dealer. The lens fits over the Luxeon. I machine a cap that covered the outer diameter of the Len. I got about the same runtime with a ten ohms ten watt power resistor. http://www.ledsupply.com/index.html is where I purchase my components
NUVI 500 mounted.
Lexon changed to a CREE Below
Lexon led 130 lunem is being replace with a Cree led, 430 lunem at almost third less current. The Luxeon is mounted above the power pluck. The Cree and two lens and a len cover that I machined for the Luxeon. The Luxeon need two square of metal surface for heat dissipation. On the left is a ball mount for my NUVI 500 and on the right is a one watt Led head lamp, modified to fit in a hold on the adapter. My Len used on the Luxeon was a 25 degree. Only 8 degree is available for the Cree. I took a ride at night and the 25 degrees cover more than half the road, the brightness is outstanding. I will try the 8 degrees lens soon.
Making the switch, I will use my soldier gun and rosin core soldier. It is
what was always recommend for electrical, My soldier is old lead but new stuff
is always lead free.
The Cree is on the same star base as the Luxeon and I will be using the same
power pluck that I have for the Luxeon. I plan to remove the screws that I
mounted the luxeon with leaving the two leads attach. I have a silicone
tube that I bought for the job before. Then I plan to mount the Cree, tin
the soldier pads, then unsolder one lead at a time from the Lexon and while
still hot attach to the tinned spot on the Cree. This will keep as much
heat as possible from the Cree.
The leads are tinned from the previous attachment. I usually dip new wire in
soldier paste, then heat the wire and have the wire touch the soldier to tin.
The soldier pads aren't tin now but I will dip the clean soldier gun tip in
paste, then touch the soldier to get a minimum amount of soldier on the tip and
a touch to the pad usually to get the copper surface to silver with out a
bubble, like a pre-tinned part would be. So it doesn't take much contact with
the pad to make a connection with the wire. It need to be silvery when
done to assure that it is not a cold soldier joint, with a gray color. The
Luxeon pad were pre-tinned
Below Battery pack.


Luxeon 5 watt, 25 degree Len. I plan to post a spot from the Cree light 25 and 8 degree later.
Cree 430 Lumen 8 degree lens
.
Cree 430 Lumen 25 degree lens